Process of making shoes.



P. F. W. C. KRIPPENDORF. PROCESS or MAKING SHOES APPLICATION FILED JUNE 8v19l6:

00 11 9 1 9m 11 m E a m m P ens ANT re.

PAUL F. W. C. KRIPPENIDORF, 0F LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- MEETS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERYCORPORATION, OF PATTERSON, NEW JERSEY,

, d CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

messes.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 312, was.

To all whom it may concern: v.

Be it known that 1, PAUL F. W. C. Kane- PENDORE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Processes of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to improvements in the art of shoe making and is herein illustrated as practisedin the manufacture of shoes of the welt type, although it will be apparent that some of the features of the invention are equally applicable to the manufacture of other types of shoes.

In the manufacture of the commercial or standard types of shoes the shank ortion of p the shoe is ordinarily constructe so as to conform more or less to the anatomical structure of the foot by arching the shank portion of the shoe longitudinallyand incorporating a shank piece in the shoe to prevent the arched portion from breaking down during the wear of the shoe. Up to the present time, however, no successful attempts have been made to construct the shoe so as to conform to the recognized transverse conformation of the shank-portion of the foot and the result is that the standard types of shoe not onl tend to weaken and strain the foot, particu arly in the arch of the foot where there is no support, but they produce an unbalanced muscular: conditlon of the foot which prevents the various foot muscles from performing their proper functions. Although it is possible to produce a shoe which conforms to the anatomical structure of individual feet such shoes are usually made by orthopedic specialists and are suited only to custom work so that their cost, therefore, places them beyond the reach of the majority of people. This condition has consequently resulted in the extended use of removable mechanical braces or so-called arch supports in the standard t ypes of shoes. These arch supports which are usually made of steel plates shaped to conform to the arched portion of the foot not only add appreciably to the initial cost of the shoe but when incorporated in the shoe render it exceedingly stifi and add unnecessary weight to the shoe and at best furnish only temporary relief for the feet. Also, unless such arch supports are especially made for the particular style of shoe they are to be worn in they destroy the appearance of the shoe and disturb the proper distribution of the pressure of the foot in the shoe and only aggravate the conditions they are intended to correct.

The present invention has for its chief object to devise a novel process by which shoes can be so manufactured'as to conform more accurately to the anatomical structure of the foot, and particularly the shank, portion of the foot, than ,the standard types of shoes heretofore produced.

A further object of the present invention is to devise a process of making shoes conforming to the anatomical structure of the foot, which process may be practised under substantially the same shoe factory conditions as those by which standard types of shoes are being manufactured and without 1 adding materially to the cost of producing the shoe.

In accordance with these objects the novel process of the present invention comprises buckling the shank portion of a sole upwardly to form an arch corresponding su stantially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot and then so treating the sole as to maintain the shank 01- tion of the sole in its arched condition. he sole so produced may then be employed in substantially the same manner as the usual. type of sole to complete the shoe.

One manner in which the process of the invention may be carried out will now be In carrying out the process of the present invention in one manner in which it has been successfully practised, an insole blanlgfl 2 of the usual material and form is firstprepared for attachment to the shoe upper a stitch receiving memberon herein shown as a channel lip 4, extending from the heel breast line about the forepart of the insole. Preferably the insole blank when died out or otherwise y providin its under si e,

shaped is provided with an additional .areagj,-.

of stock 6 along its inside shank portion for the purpose of offering greater support to the inside shank of the foot in the completed shoe and also reducing the tendency of the foot to roll inwardly m the shoe.v

- in the shank portion of the insole 2 upwardly to form an arch corresponding substantially to the arched or lateral and transverse conformation of the shank portion of the foot it is to support and then treating the sole in such manner as to maintain the shank portion of the insole in its arched condition independently of other parts of the shoe which maybe secured to it. The word buckle is herein used to define the condition produced at the shank portion of the sole caused by relative displacement of other portions of the sole.

The illustrated preferred manner of buckling the insole in the shank comprises separatmg the heel end of the insole into inside and outside or right and left arts8 and 10,

respectively, by a buttonho e cut 12 ex-' tending approximately centrally of the heel end of the insole from approximately the heel breast line to its rear edge. Preferably the cut 12 also provides notches 14 in the members 8 and 10. The underside or flesh side of the insole is then scored as at 16 which scoring extends from approximately the forward end of the cut 12, along a line extending centrally, through the shank substantially parallel to the inside channel 4 to approximately the ball or tread line of the insole. The inside member 8 is now moved laterally in the direction of the arrow, Fig.

3, into a position shown in full lines, Fig. 3,

so as to create a fullness of stock along the inside shank of the insole which is displaced or buckled upwardly and forms an arch 18 the height of which is to correspond to the transverse convex curvature of the shank of the particular size of foot it is to support.

The amount of fullness created along the inside shank of the insole depends somewhat upon the location of the cut 12 and particularly the forward end orthe perforation 20 affected by the buckling of the material at as to be received between the members 8 and secured in position. "It has been found, howin practice to be preferable to locate the perforation 20wapproximately centrally of either side of the insole atthe breastline in which event the outside portion of the insole is not theinside shank and therefore provides a, substantially level supportingsurface for the out-side shank portion of the foot. The

tends'to confine .thehuckled portion of the. a -insole'to the insidefshank and to cause the" .stock to arch progressively from the flat outside shank scoring of the under side of the insole also portion of the insole.

In order to lock or retain the shank portion 18 of the insole in its conformed position a V-shaped locking wedge 22, having projections 24 correspondingto the notches 14 of the members 8 andlO and of such si'ze 10in their separated positions, which it is desired to maintain is interposed therebetween. The wedge locking member 22 is secured inposition between the members 8 and 10 by staples 26 in addition to the inter locking notches 14 and projections 24. It will thus be seen that the buckled stock forming the arch 18 of the insole is independently and permanently locked or maintained in arched position and cannot break down under normal conditions. At the same time, however, the arch provides a yielding and resilient support for the entire arched portion of the foot. Under ordinary conditions it will be found that a single height and curvature of arch will accommodate feet of several sizes and diiferent'styles of shoes.

The last with which this insole is used is similar to .an ordinary commercial last except that the shank portion of the last is somewhat deeper and corresponds more closely to that of a normal foot. The shoe upper 30 which is cut and prepared in the usual manner is now assembled togetherwith the insole upon the last, the arched portion 18 of the insole fitting into and conforming to the reduced shank portion of the last and the extra portion (10f the insole which has been reduced to a feather edge being conformed to the inside face of the last. The heel end of the insole, or more accurately, the offset member 8 is now trimmed to the a shape of the heel end of the last and the shoe then lasted in the usual manner. The insideportion of the heel end of the insole may also be shaped to compensate for the displacement of this portion of the sole when th'e'insole blank is first shaped or died out. After the shoe has been lasted the upper 30 and the welt 32' are secured through the channel 4 to.the insole 2 by stitches 34 and the shoe then inseam trimmed. The usual shoe filler 36 is then applied to the shoe bottom and, if desired, a resilient shank 38 aaaaeea ever, that the use of a shank is not essential against breaking down owing to to prevent the longitudianl arch of the shoe from breaking down, particularly when heavy stock is used for the insole since the buckling of the stock in the shank also creates an. opposed longitudinally extending rated into inside and outside members 44 and 46, respectively, by a buttonhole cut 48 tions to the arch formed the shoe, the heel t lt extending from approximately the heel breast line of the outsole to its rear edge.

This cut is preferably located in substantially the same relative position on the heel end of the outsole as the cut 12 of the insole so that an arch having'similar proporon the insole will be formed on the outsole. Notches 50 are also pr'eferabl cut in the members 44 and 46. The mem er 44 is now moved laterally support for the the foot and the inside shank of the shoels gradually curved upwardly from the outside shank so as to conform to the transressively from. the outside shank as verse conformation of the shank of the foot and outside shank portion {of I provides adequate support throughout the entire shank portion'of the foot. The buckling of the stock at the inside shank of the insole also creates a longitudinally disposed arch formation which' increases rooes t e corresponding formation of the foot.

By constructing a shoe in the manner herein described it will be apparent that the weight of the body. will be distributed umformly over those parts of the foot that are designed to sustain this weight, the correct balance of the foot will be maintained and the normal functions. of the various muscles of the foot will be restored. The locked formation of the soles whereby they are in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 4 'to buckle the inside shank portion 52 of the outsole upwardly to form an arch adapted to fit in under the arch 18 of the insole to reinforce it and relieve the upper securing stitches along the inside shank of the insole from the strain caused by flexing the shoe in walking. The arch 52 of the outsole is also independently and locked in its formed osition y insertin a similar wedge-shape locking member'fi between the member 46 andthe ofl'set mem ber 44 in their relative positions and securing it in said position to the members by projections 56 which interlock with the notches 50 and by staples 58 as in the insole. The heel end of the outsole is now trimmed to shape and the outsole secured to the welt by stitches 60. A heel 62 is now attached to covering the portion of, the outsole which is split as shown in Fig.

. 1 and the shoe then completed in the usual manner. Since the forward end of the out 4-8 at the heel end of the outsole terminates at approximately the front edge of the heel the arch 52 of the outsole will not exten on to the heel seat so that a substantially rovided for the attachment a heel of the usual kind curvatures of the foot in the shank. The shank of the shoe at theoutside is comparatively. low and level to afiford substantial prevented from breaking down relieves the strain on the shoe upper and the stitches along the shank so that a stronger and more SEIVlCGdblG. shoe is produced. Moreover, shoes made by this process are exceedingly flexible and are especiall adapted to. correct the abnormalities o the foot and restore it to its normal condition without, rendering the shoe uncomfortable lllltll such abnormalities have been corrected.

It will be further noted that the process of the present invention necessitates substantially no changes in the usual factory methods by which the standard types of shoes are manufactured and does not materially increase the cost of manufacturing ermancntly arched position making shoes such shoes. Also, the appearance of the shoe produced bfyrsaid method is not materifallfiv different om the commercial types 0 s oes.

Having described my invention, I claim i as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States a a 1. That improvement inthe art of shoe making which comprises buckling the shank portionof a sole upwardly to form an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of assembling the sole and an upper upon a ast,- and then attaching the upper to thesole. Y I

2. That. improvement in the' process of 1 which comprises bucklin the shank portion .of a sole upwardly to cm an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot, treating the sole to maintain the shank portion of the sole in its arched con dition, assemblin the sole and an upper the foot and locking it in upon a last, and t en attaching the upper to the sole.

'3. That improvement in the art of shoe making which'c'om rises bucklingthe shank portion of an'inso e upwardly to form an arch corresponding I substantially to the arched conformation of the foot and looking it in arched position, assembling the 111-- sole and an upper upon a last, attaching the upper to the insole, arching the outsole in the shank to the arched conformation of the lIfiSOle, and then attaching the outsole to the s 0e. 7

4. That improvement in the art of shoe making which comprises buckling .the shank portion of an insole upwardly to form an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of the foot and locking it in arched position, assembling the insole and an upper upon a last, attaching the upper to the insole, arching the outsole in the shank to the arched conformation of the 1nsole and permanently locking it in arched position, and then attaching the outsole to the shoe.

5. That improvement in the process of making shoes which comprises buckling the shank portion of an insole upwardly to form an arch correspondingsubstantially to the arched conformation of the foot and looking it in arched position, assembling the insole and an upper upon a last,-attaching the upper to the insole, and then attaching an outsole to the shoe. K

6. That improvement in the process of making shoes which comprises displacing a part of the heel end of a sole laterally .to cause the inside shank portion of the sole to buckle upwardly and form an arch corre sponding substantially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot,

- fastening theoflset part of the heel end of the sole in its ofltset position, assembling the sole and an upper upon a last, and then attaching the upper to the sole.

7 That improvement in the process of making shoes which comprises separating the heel end of a sole from approxlmately ally the heel breast line to its rear edge into mside and outside members, movin the inside member laterally to cause t e inside shank portion ofthe sole to buckle upwardly and form an arch corresponding substan 'tially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot, securin the laterofiset member relatively to t e outside member to maintain the shank portion of the sole in its arched condition, assembling the sole and an upper upon a last, and then attaching the upper to the sole.

8. That improvement in the process of making shoes which comprises displacing laterally to cause the inside shank portion of the insole to buckle upwardly and form an arch correspondingsubstantially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the -foot, securing: the displaced part of the heel end of the insole in its offset. position, trimming the heel end of the insole to the desired shape, assembling the insole and an upper upon a last, displacing a part of the heel end of an outsole laterally to cause the shank portion of the outsole to conform to the arched conformation of the insole, securing the displaced part of the outsole in its. ofiset position, and then attaching the outsole to the shoe. I. P

9. That improvement in the process of making shoes which comprises. separating the heel end of the insole from approximately the heel breast line to its rear edge into inside and outside members, scoring the under side of the insole along a line extending centrally through the shank portion substantially parallel to the inside edge of the shank and from approximately the heel breast line to the ball line, moving the inside member laterally to cause the inside shank portion of the insole to buckle upwardly and form an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot, securing the laterally offset to lock the arched portion of the insole in its assumed position, assembling the insole and an upper upon a last, attaching the upper to the insole, separating the heel end of an outsole from approximately the heel breast line to its rear edge'into inside and outside members,'scoring the upper side of the outsole along a line extending centrally. through the shank portion substantially parallel to the inside edge of the shank and from approximately the heel breast line to the ball line, ,moving the inside member laterally to cause the inside shank ortion of of the insole to buckle upwardly and form' an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot, securing the offset member relatively to the outside member thus locking the arched portion in its assumed position,

assembling the insole and an upper upon a last, securing a welt and the upper to the insole, separating the heel end of an outsole from approximately the heel breast line to its'rear edge into inside and outside members, moving the inside member of the heel end of the outsole laterally to cause themside shank portion of the outsole to buckle upwardly and form an arch corresponding to the arched portion of the insole, securing the oif set portion of the outsole relatively -member relatively to the outside member s lot) neaasee portion thereof, attaching the welt and applying a heel to the inside member laterally to cause the shank portion of the insole inside of 'the scoring to buckle upwardly and form an arch corresponding substantially to the' arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot, inserting a locking member between the ofi'set and the outside members thereby locking the arched portion of the insole in its assumed position, assembling the .insole and an upper upon a last, attaching a welt and the upper to the stitch receiving member of the insole, separating the heel end of an outsole from approximately the making heel breast line to its rearedge into inside and outside members, moving the inside portion laterally to cause tion of the outsole to buckle upwardly and form an arch correspondin to the arch of the insole, insertin a locking member between the offset an the outside members of the outsole, attaching the outsole to the welt, and applying a heel to the shoe.

12. That improvement in the process of soles which comprises buckling the shank portion of a sole upwardly to form an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of the foot, and then locking the buckled portion of the sole in its arched condition.

13. That improvement in the process of making soles which comprises buckling the shank portion of a sole upwardly to form an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of the foot, and then treating the sole to maintain the shank'portion of the sole in its arched condition.

14. That improvement in the process of making soles which comprises separating the heel end of the insole into inside and outside members, displacing the inside member laterally to cause the inside shank portion of the sole to buckle upwardly and form an arch corresponding substantially ,to the arched conformation of the shank'portion of the foot, and then securing the offset member relatively to the outside member.

15. That improvement in theprocess of making soles which comprises separating the heel end of a'sole from approximately the edge of the insole, moving the inslde shank porheel breast line to its rear edge, moving the inside member laterally to cause the inside shank portion of the sole to buckle upwardly and form an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot, insertinga lockmg member between the ofiset member and the outside member of the heel end of the sole in the relative positions it is desired to maintain, and then securing said locking member to both of said members.

16. That improvement in'the process of making an insole which comprises providing an insole having upper securing means, separating the heel end of the insole from ap proximately the heel breast line to its rear edge into inside and outside members, scormg the under side of the insole along a line extending substantially parallel to the inside edge of the insole to approximately the ball line, displacing the inside memberlaterally to cause the inside shank portion of the insole to buckle upwardly and form an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot, inserting a locking piece'between the opposed edges of the inside and outside members to retain the arched portion in its assumed position. and then securing the looking member to the insole.

17. That improvement in the process of making insoles which comprises providing an insole blank'having an additional area of stock extending along its inside shank portion, providing the under face of the insole with upper securing means, separating the heel end of the insole from approximately the heel breast line to its rear edge into inside and outside members, displacing the inside member laterally to cause the inside shank portion of the insole to buckle upwardly and form an arch corresponding substantially to the arched conformation of the shank portion of the foot, inserting a locking piece between the opposed edges of the inside I and outside members to retain the arched portion in its assumed position, and thpn securing the locking member to the inso e.

18. That improvement in the process of making insoles which comprises separating the heel end of the insole by a buttonhole cut extending from approximately the heel breast line to its rear edge into inside and member of suflieient size to maintain the displaced member in said position relatively to the other member when interposed therebetween, and having projections on either of its sides to cooperate with the notchesin the inside and outside members, inserting said locking member between said inside and outside members, the projections on said wedge her by staples.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specificatlon.

PAUL F. W. C. KBIPPENDORF. 

